Road from Lugo to Santiago

STAGES FROM LUGO TO SAN ROMAN DE RETORTA AND MELIDE

We start with the incredible historic center of Lugo and its walls that will not leave you indifferent.

In San Román de Retorta, its small 12th-century Romanesque-style Church stands out.

In Melide, as the stage-ending town, we recommend the following places to visit:

> First, we cannot miss tasting its famous octopus, in any of its renowned pulperías. Similarly, you have a magnificent ethnographic museum, Terra de Melide, recently built and unique in the area. The gastronomy on the French Way is one of the most renowned not only on the Way of Saint James but also at the national level in Spain as a whole.

> We also highlight the Melide Cross, which they say dates from the 19th century and may be the oldest in the entire Galician region. Next to this magnificent cruceiro, we find the Chapel of San Roque (a jewel of Romanesque architecture) that many have found to resemble the current 10€ note. The ticket simply reflects an example of Romanesque architecture in the strictest sense and is not associated with any specific monument (thus avoiding issues). At least we can say that the arches and columns of the door of this chapel in Melide reflect the purity and perfection of the Romanesque style.

> Also notable is the Church of the Sancti Spiritus and the Romanesque temple of Santa María.

> In the vicinity of Melide, we can also visit the pre-Romanesque Church of San Antoniño de Toques, located in a spectacular setting amidst a waterfall that runs alongside the church. The pre-Romanesque style church consists of a nave. Above the triumphal arch, there is a Romanesque carving of a Calvary from the 13th century.

Outside the route of what to see on the Primitive Way from Lugo but well worth a detour if we have time for it, in Sobrado dos Monxes, near Melide, is located The Monastery of Santa María de Sobrado dos Monxes, one of the main medieval origin monasteries of the province of A Coruña and all of Galicia. It is believed to date from the 10th century, as several writings have been found citing it. It has undergone numerous renovations from the 16th to the 18th century.

Today, the Church of the Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes is well preserved, as well as part of its monastic dependencies, thanks to the work of the Benedictine monks who inhabit it. The Church dates from the 17th century and is Baroque in style. The spectacular facade with two slender towers stands out. Its entire interior is worthy of admiration. The Monastery preserves three cloisters. It was declared a National Historic-Artistic Monument.

Upon arriving in Melide, we meet the pilgrims who are taking the route from Sarria to Santiago, part of the French Way variant, to head together towards Santiago on a single path. From Monte do Gozo, at the gates of Santiago, we will enjoy an exceptional view of the Cathedral and the city of the Apostle.

STAGE FROM MELIDE TO ARZUA

In Boente, the Church of Santiago stands out, presided over by a 19th-century carving of the Apostle.

In Ribadixo do Baixo, after crossing the bridge of medieval origin, is the Ribadixo pilgrim’s hospital, the last historical space that remained open to serve the pilgrim. In the recreational area of Ribadixo, we can take a break to refresh our feet in the river.

In Arzúa, the Church of Santiago stands out, with the Gothic Chapel of Magdalena, belonging to a vanished hospital. Next to a grove of oak trees, the chapel of A Mota also stands out.

About 5 kilometers off the route of what to see on the Primitive Way from Lugo, the Pazo de Brandeso stands out, where Valle-Inclan set part of his novel “Sonata de otoño.” The Pazo is privately owned and cannot be visited. It is a stately building with a chapel on its main facade.

STAGE FROM ARZUA TO PEDROUZO

Firstly, we highlight the Parish Church of San Verisimo, in the town of Ferreiros.

In Santa Irene, we can visit the Chapel of the Saint, which gives its name to the town. A hermitage dedicated to this Portuguese martyr saint. Also notable is a baroque fountain said to have skin-healing properties.

We cannot miss the opportunity to taste the magnificent Arzúa-Ulloa cheese. Since 1989, this artisanally made cheese, from natural and whole cow’s milk, has been designated as a Galician Quality Product. It is produced in all the municipalities of the Arzúa-Ulloa region: Arzúa, Curtis, Melide, O Pino, Santiso, Sobrado dos Monxes, Toques, Touro, and Vilasantar (in the province of A Coruña) and Friol, Monterroso, and Palas de Rei (in the province of Lugo).

STAGE FROM PEDROUZO TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

Before reaching Santiago, about 4 km away, Monte do Gozo offers an incredible panoramic view of the city.

We conclude our post on what to see on the Primitive Way from Lugo to Santiago de Compostela with the culmination in the city of Santiago de Compostela, where we find the most important monument of our entire route, the Cathedral of Santiago, dedicated to the Apostle James.

It was consecrated in 1128 and is a good example of a pilgrimage church.

Of Romanesque style, with later Renaissance and Baroque elements from the 18th century. With a Romanesque Latin cross plan, it has three naves divided by semicircular arches, a tribune, transept and ambulatory.

The Pórtico de la Gloria, by the master Mateo, is the best example of Spanish Romanesque architecture.

As a tradition and final touch in our what to see and do on the Primitive Way from Lugo, any pilgrim who wishes and is able can attend the mass at 12 and 7:30 pm in the Cathedral. Here, with a bit of luck, you will be able to see the magnificent botafumeiro in action. *In 2019, due to works inside the Cathedral, this mass will be held in other nearby churches. The Cathedral prepares its best finery for the upcoming Holy Year 2021.

The whole of the old town is spectacular, taking you back to medieval times without even realising it. There you will find the Mercado de Abastos de Santiago. On the other hand, you can also get to know the surroundings of Santiago and go on organised excursions along the Costa da Morte and Rias Baixas.

Another tradition is to embrace the image of the Apostle James and visit his tomb.

A visit to its museum is a must, as well as a visit to the roofs of the Cathedral.

The Monastery of San Martín Pinario, opposite the Plaza de la Azabachería.

The façade of the Parador de los Reyes Católicos, in the Plaza del Obradoiro, which was founded as a pilgrims’ hospital.

The whole of the old town is spectacular, taking you back to medieval times without even realising it. There, you will find the Mercado de Abastos de Santiago, the Galicia Pavilion in the San Lázaro neighborhood, the Pantheon of Illustrious Galicians (next to the museum), the Chapel of As Animas, Praza de Cervantes, the Museum of the Casa de la Troya, etc.

We indicate the different options on how to get to the French Way starting in Lugo. A town that marks the minimum distance, if you do the Way on foot, of 100 Kms to obtain the “La Compostela” certificate

Option 1: Personal car and leave the vehicle parked in Lugo. You can park in the vicinity of the accommodation where you are staying. It is a very safe and small town where, to date, there have been no security problems. Another option is to request private parking.

Option 2: Bus

> Journey from Santiago to Lugo

– From Santiago de Compostela city or from its Airport, to Lugo you can travel with the Freire bus company.

> Journey from Madrid to Lugo

– From Madrid to Lugo with the Alsa company, with frequent departures from the Madrid South Bus Station, and from the Madrid Airport (Terminal 4)

Option 3: Airplane

The nearest airport to Lugo is Santiago de Compostela, approximately 1h 15′ by car.

From here there are two possibilities to get to Lugo:

– By bus, option seen previously.

– Private transfer with us: pick-up at Santiago Airport and direct transfer to Sarria in approximately 1h 15′. Please ask us for the price of the service.